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What not to prune in autumn

The short list that saves a season: old wood, next spring’s buds, and anything that cannot heal a cut before the cold.

What not to prune in autumn — mophead hydrangea faded heads left for frost cover

Leave old wood and next spring’s buds

Spring-flowering shrubs — lilac, forsythia, mock orange, weigela — set next spring’s buds by August. Mophead hydrangeas keep their buds under the faded heads. Every autumn cut costs you a flower twice over. Deadhead in spring when you can see which buds made it.

Frost-sensitive and late-bleeding plants

Lavender and other woody subshrubs never reshoot from bare wood: one light shear at most, and only in mild gardens. Stone fruit takes silver leaf through fresh autumn wounds. Japanese maple, birch and walnut bleed: wait until they’re bare, then take dead wood only.

Okay now: deadheading and hedges

Deadhead where it doesn’t touch next spring’s buds, and take one last light trim on evergreen hedges six weeks before your first frost. Shaping waits for late winter.

Lilac buds are set by August — do not prune in autumn

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